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1
After cleaning, cut the different mushrooms as follows: For firm, regularly shaped mushrooms like cremini, portobellos, hedgehogs, puffballs, and shiitakes, trim the stems, if any, and thinly slice the caps, no more than 1/4 inch thick and 1 inch long.
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2
For irregularly shaped mushrooms like hen of the woods and cauliflower, cut into 1/2-inch slices, then crosswise 1/2 inch thick.
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3
For soft mushrooms like chanterelles, yellowfoot, and black trumpets, cut strips 1/2 inch long and 1/2 inch across.
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4
Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat until foaming.
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5
Stir in the mushrooms, a handful at a time, and cook each batch until the mushrooms wilt enough to show the bottom of the pan.
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6
Continue adding mushrooms until all are in the pan.
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7
Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms seem to have given up all their liquid, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the types of mushrooms.
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8
(If in doubt, let the mushrooms stand off the heat for 5 minutes to see if they give up any more liquid.)
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9
Turn the heat to high.
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10
Stir the mushrooms until the liquid is evaporated and the mushrooms begin to sizzle, about 3 minutes.
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11
Transfer the mushrooms-to a plate and let cool to room temperature.
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12
Place the mushrooms in a food processor and use quick, on/off pulses until the mushrooms are finely chopped.
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13
Store, covered, for up to 1 week in the refrigerator or freeze for up to 3 months.
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14
To freeze cubes, place 1 tablespoon of the duxelles into each compartment of an ice-cube tray.
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15
Tamp down the duxelles and freeze with a piece of plastic wrap applied directly to the surface.
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16
When solid, transfer the cubes to a sealable plastic container or freezer bag.
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17
Variations: Parmesan Duxelles: Stir 2 tablespoons grated Parmagiano-Reggiano or other good-quality Parmesan cheese into the duxelles after it has cooled to room temperature.
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18
Creamy Duxelles: Stir 2 tablespoons heavy (or whipping) cream into the duxelles before removing from the heat.
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19
Chunky Duxelles: Cool the sauteed mushrooms to room temperature.
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20
Transfer to a cutting board and coarsely chop.
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21
Do not use the food processor.
