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For the batter, dissolve the yeast with the sugar in 1/2 cup of the water.
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Let it stand in a warm place for 10 minutes, or until it froths.
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Put the flour in a large bowl.
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Add the yeast mixture and the remaining water gradually, beating vigorously, to make a creamy, lump-free batter.
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Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and leave in a warm place for about 1 hour.
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The soft, almost liquid batter will rise and become bubbly and a little elastic.
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To make the syrup, bring the water to the boil with the sugar and lemon juice and simmer for 10 minutes, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
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Then stir in the orange-blossom or rose water and simmer for a few seconds more.
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Allow to cool, then chill in the refrigerator.
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When the batter is ready, rub a nonstick skillet with oil (use a paper towel) so as to grease it with a very thin film.
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Heat the skillet until it is very hot, then reduce the heat and keep it at medium.
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Pour the batter by the tablespoon into the skillet, making several small rounds that are not touching, in the pan.
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As little holes appear on top and the pancakes come away from the pan easily and become golden on the bottom, turn and do the other side.
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Drop them into the syrup when they are done.
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To serve, arrange in one layer on a flat serving dish.
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Spread with about 1/2 pound thick cream.
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In the Middle East the cream made from buffalos milk called eishta is used (see page 407), but you may use clotted cream or mascarpone or whipped heavy cream.
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Sprinkle on about 1 1/4 cups chopped pistachios or almonds, or spread a teaspoonful of rose-petal jam over the cream (this is popular at weddings).
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For a party, make a mound with several layers of pancakes, each spread with cream and rose-petal jam or sprinkled with chopped pistachios or almonds.
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20
This is one of my favorite Arab sweets.
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Pour 1/2 ladle of batter into the oiled skillet over medium heat, tilting the pan a little to allow it to spread.
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It will not spread out too much and will remain in a small, round, fattish shape.
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Fry one side of the pancake onlythis is very important.
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The other side must remain uncooked and moist, so that its edges can be stuck together.
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When the pancakes lose their whiteness and little holes appear, and as they become detached from the pan, lift them out and pile them up on a plate ready to be stuffed.
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Put a heaping tablespoon of stuffing (see below) in the middle of each pancake, on the uncooked side.
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Fold the pancakes in half over the filling to make a half-moon shape, and close the pastries by pinching the edges firmly together to seal them and trap the filling.
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Deep-fry, a few at a time, in medium-hot oil about 1 inch deep, until pale brown, turning them over once.
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Lift them out with a perforated spoon and drain on paper towels.
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Then dip them, while still hot, in the above syrup.
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Serve hot or cold.
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32
You can make them in advance and reheat them, covered, in the oven.
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For those who have a sweet tooth, serve them with more syrup poured over.
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34
Mix 2 cups coarsely ground or chopped walnuts, 3 to 4 tablespoons sugar, and 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon.
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They are divine.
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36
In the Middle East a slightly salty and sharp cheese called akaoui is used.
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Alternatives are ricotta, mozzarella, and even a slightly salted halumi (soak the cheese in several changes of water to remove the salt).
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A good combination is 3/4 pound of a half-and-half mixture of mozzarella and ricotta, blended to a paste in the food processor.
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Dip the hot pancakes in syrup and serve hot.
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40
Mozzarella and halumi become hard and rubbery when they are cold.