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1
Preheat the oven to 425F.
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2
This is because the easiest way to poach the salmon for this dish is to do it in the oven.
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So: pour the water into a roasting pan, add the lime leaves and then the salmon.
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Cover the pan with foil, put in the oven and cook for about 15 minutes, by which time the salmon should be tender.
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5
Remove the pan from the oven and drain the liquid off into a pitcher.
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6
Keep the fish warm simply by replacing the foil on the pan.
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7
Melt the butter in a wide, heavy saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid, and add the oil to stop the butter burning.
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8
Soften the onion in the pan and add the spices, then keep cooking till the onion is slightly translucent and suffused with the soft perfume of the spices.
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Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon so that its all well coated.
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10
Theres not enough onion to give a heavy coating: just make sure the rice is fragrantly slicked.
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Pour in the reserved liquid from the pitcherabout 2 1/4 cupsand stir before covering with the lid and cooking gently for about 15 minutes.
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12
If your stove is vociferous you may need a flame tamer.
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At the end of the cooking time, when the rice is tender and has lost all chalki-ness, turn off the heat, remove the lid, cover the pan with a dish towel and then replace the lid.
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14
This will help absorb any extra moisture from the rice.
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15
It is also the best way to let the rice stand without getting sticky or cold, which is useful when youve got a few friends and a few dishes to keep your eye on.
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Just before you want to eat, drain off any extra liquid thats collected in the dish with the salmon, then flake the fish with a fork.
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Add to it the rice, eggs, cilantro, lime juice and a drop or two of fish sauce.
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Stir gently to mixI use a couple of wooden paddles or spatulasand taste to see if you want any more lime juice or fish sauce.
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19
Sprinkle over the zest from the two juiced halves of the lime and serve.
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20
I love it served just as it is in the roasting dish, but if you want to, and I often do (consistency is a requirement of a recipe but not a cook), decant into a large plate before you add the lime zest, then surround with lime segments and add the zest and a small handful of freshly chopped cilantro.
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21
This is one of those rare dishes that manages to be comforting and light at the same time.
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And- should you have leftovers, which I wouldn't count on--it's heavenly eaten, as all leftovers demand to be, standing up, straight from the fridge.
