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1
Squeeze juice from 2 lemon halves into large bowl; add lemon halves.
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2
Fill bowl with water.
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3
Cut stem off 1 artichoke.
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4
Starting at base, bend leaves back and snap off where they break naturally; continue until all tough outer leaves have been removed, leaving cone of tender pale green leaves.
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5
Using small sharp knife, trim outside edge of base until smooth and no dark green areas remain.
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6
Rub trimmed edge with 1 of remaining lemon halves.
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7
Cut artichoke lengthwise into quarters.
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8
Rub cut sides of quarters with lemon.
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9
Using small knife, cut out choke and small purple-tipped leaves from 1 quarter.
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10
Rub cut areas with lemon.
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11
Trim top leaves, leaving artichoke quarter about 2 inches long.
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12
Cut quarter into 2 wedges.
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13
Place wedges into lemon water.
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14
Repeat with remaining artichokes.
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15
Bring remaining ingredients to boil in heavy large pot (do not use aluminum or cast iron).
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16
Drain artichokes; add to pot.
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17
Return to boil.
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18
Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until artichokes are tender, about 20 minutes.
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19
Using slotted spoon, transfer artichokes to medium bowl.
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20
Reserve 1 cup cooking liquid in small bowl.
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21
Place potatoes, salt, bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds and celery seeds in large saucepan.
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22
Pour in enough cold water to cover potatoes generously.
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23
Boil until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
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24
Drain.
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25
Cool 15 minutes; peel.
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26
Stir saffron in heavy large in heavy large pot over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
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27
Add reserved 1 cup cooking liquid; bring to simmer.
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28
Add artichokes, potatoes, mussels, shallots, butter and 3/4 teaspoon mustard seeds.
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29
Bring to boil.
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30
Cover pot; cook until mussels open and potatoes are golden, about 8 minutes.
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31
(Discard any unopened mussels.)
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32
Mix in green onions.
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33
Season with salt and pepper.
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34
Divide stew among 6 shallow soup bowls.
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35
Sprinkle with chives and serve.