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1
Make the marinade: Whisk the brown sugar, vinegar, onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper in a bowl.
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2
Put the ribs meat-side down on a cutting board.
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3
Starting at one end, slip a paring knife under the membrane that covers the back of the rack.
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4
Loosen the membrane with the knife, then pull it off.
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5
Coat the ribs on both sides with the marinade; wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
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6
Make the rub: Mix the brown sugar, chili powder, garlic powder, onion powder, celery salt, celery seeds, cayenne, 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper in a bowl.
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7
Soak 2 cups hickory wood chips in water, 30 to 40 minutes.
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8
Meanwhile, preheat a grill to medium low (275 degrees F) and prepare for indirect grilling: For a charcoal grill, bank the coals to one side; for a gas grill, turn off the burners on one side.
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9
Cover the grate on the cooler side of the grill with foil.
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10
Drain the wood chips.
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11
For a charcoal grill, scatter the chips over the hot coals; for a gas grill, put the chips in a smoker box and place over direct heat.
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12
Close the lid and allow smoke to build up, about 10 minutes.
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13
Rinse the marinade off the ribs and pat dry with paper towels.
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14
Work the spice rub into both sides of each rack with your hands.
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15
Place the ribs, meat-side up, on the foil over indirect heat.
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16
Close the lid and cook, undisturbed, until the meat shrinks back slightly to expose a bit of the bone, about 1 hour, 30 minutes.
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17
Rotate the ribs (keep them meat-side up and over indirect heat), then close the lid and continue cooking, 2 hours to 2 hours, 30 minutes.
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18
(For a charcoal grill, add more hot coals as needed to maintain the temperature.)
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19
Meanwhile, make the barbecue sauce: Heat the vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
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20
Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 1 minute.
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21
Stir in the tomato paste and chili powder until incorporated, about 1 minute.
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22
Whisk in the vinegar, 1/4 cup water, the molasses, Worcestershire sauce, honey, mustard powder, espresso powder, 3/4 teaspoon black pepper and the cayenne.
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23
Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes.
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24
Whisk in the ketchup and pineapple preserves.
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25
Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, until thickened, about 45 minutes.
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26
Whisk in the liquid smoke.
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27
Let the sauce cool to room temperature, then remove the garlic.
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28
(The sauce will keep, refrigerated, up to 2 weeks.)
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29
Baste the ribs generously with the prepared barbecue sauce.
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30
Close the lid and continue cooking until glazed, about 20 more minutes.
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31
Transfer to a cutting board; let rest a few minutes before cutting into individual ribs.
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32
Serve with more sauce on the side.
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33
Photograph by Paul Sirisalee
