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1
Put pork in a 5-quart pot and cover with cold water by 2 inches.
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2
Bring to a boil, skimming foam as necessary, then add ginger and scallion.
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3
Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until pork is just cooked through (it should no longer be pink inside), about 1 hour.
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4
Drain in a colander and cool (pork will be easier to slice).
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5
Cut pork crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick slices (discarding any bones) and pat dry.
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6
Wash white and pale green sliced leeks in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well.
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7
Pat dry.
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8
If using Chinese leek greens, wash separately in same manner.
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9
Stir together chile bean sauce, cayenne, black beans, and sweet bean sauce in a small bowl.
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10
Stir together wine and soy sauce in a small cup.
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11
Heat a wok over high heat until a bead of water dropped onto cooking surface evaporates immediately.
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12
Add 1 tablespoon oil, swirling it around wok, and heat until it begins to smoke.
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13
Carefully add pork slices (oil will spit) and cook, letting slices lie flat against wok to brown but stirring occasionally, until golden, about 3 minutes.
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14
Transfer pork with a slotted spoon to a bowl.
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15
Add remaining tablespoon oil to wok and heat over high heat until it begins to smoke.
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16
Add chile mixture and stir-fry 1 minute.
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17
Return pork to wok and stir-fry until coated with chile mixture.
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18
Add wine-soy mixture and stir-fry until pork is coated.
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19
Add white and pale green parts of either kind of leek and stir-fry until almost crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
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20
Add Chinese leek greens if using.
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21
Continue to stir-fry until leeks are crisp-tender (and greens are just wilted), about 1 minute.
