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1
Soak sweetbreads in a large bowl of ice and cold water in the refrigerator, changing water occasionally (2 or 3 times), at least 8 hours.
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2
Drain sweetbreads and transfer to a 4-quart heavy saucepan.
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3
Cover with cold water by 1 inch and add 1 tablespoon salt.
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4
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until sweetbreads plump and feel slightly firmer to the touch, about 3 minutes.
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5
Drain in a colander and transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop cooking.
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6
Cut away any fat and pull away as much membrane and connective tissue as possible with a small paring knife without breaking up sweetbreads.
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7
Arrange sweetbreads in 1 layer in a baking dish, then cover with plastic wrap and top with another baking dish or plate holding weights.
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8
Chill sweetbreads, weighted, at least 8 hours.
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9
While sweetbreads chill, blanch pistachios in a small saucepan of boiling water 1 minute, then drain and peel.
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10
Pat sweetbreads dry and season with salt and pepper.
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11
Heat oil and 2 tablespoons butter in a deep 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then saute half of sweetbreads, turning over once, until golden brown, about 4 minutes total, and transfer to a plate.
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12
Add 1 tablespoon butter to skillet and saute remaining sweetbreads in same manner, transferring to plate.
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13
Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to skillet, then reduce heat to moderate and cook pancetta, stirring occasionally, until beginning to brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
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14
Add onion, carrot, celery, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme, then reduce heat to moderately low and cook, stirring, until vegetables are softened, 3 to 5 minutes.
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15
Add Sherry and bring to a boil, then add demi-glace, water, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, pistachios, and sweetbreads and return to a boil.
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16
Reduce heat to low, then cover surface of mixture with a buttered round of parchment paper (buttered side down) and simmer sweetbreads, skillet partially covered with lid, until firm but still springy to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes.
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17
Transfer sweetbreads with a slotted spoon to a bowl and, when cool enough to handle, pull apart into 1- to 1 1/2-inch pieces.
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18
Ladle cooking liquid through a sieve into a bowl, discarding bay leaf and thyme, and reserve.
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19
Reserve vegetables in another bowl for sauce and stuffing.
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20
Cook spinach in a large pot of boiling salted water , uncovered, until wilted, about 20 seconds, then drain in colander.
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21
Transfer spinach to a bowl of cold water to stop cooking and drain again, squeezing handfuls of spinach to remove excess liquid.
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22
Chop spinach and stir into reserved vegetables along with 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg.
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23
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400F.
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24
Make a hole for stuffing that runs lengthwise through veal: Beginning in middle of 1 end of roast, insert a sharp long thin knife lengthwise toward center, then repeat at opposite end of loin to complete an incision running through middle.
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25
Open up incision with your fingers, working from both ends, to create a 1 1/2-inch-wide opening.
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26
Pack loin with all but 2 tablespoons vegetable stuffing, pushing from both ends toward center.
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27
Tie veal roast with kitchen string at 1-inch intervals along entire length of roast.
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28
Pat veal dry and season generously with salt and pepper.
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29
Heat oil in an ovenproof 12-inch heavy skillet over high heat until just smoking, then brown veal, turning with tongs, about 5 minutes.
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30
Transfer skillet to oven and roast veal until thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into meat (do not touch stuffing) registers 150F, 45 to 50 minutes for veal; about 40 minutes for pork.
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31
Transfer roast with tongs to a platter and let stand 20 minutes.
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32
Skim fat from sweetbread cooking liquid and bring liquid to a boil in a 2 1/2-quart heavy saucepan.
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33
Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons vegetables, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg.
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34
Add sweetbreads along with any veal juices accumulated on platter and simmer until just heated through.
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35
Remove from heat and keep warm, covered.
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36
Discard string, then cut veal into 1-inch-thick slices and serve with sweetbreads and some sauce.
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37
Serve remaining sauce on the side.
