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1
Preheat oven to 325F with rack in middle.
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2
Bring wine to a simmer in a small saucepan.
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3
Stir in porcini and remove from heat.
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4
Pat veal dry and season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.
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5
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wide 6-to 8-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then brown veal, turning, about 12 minutes.
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6
Transfer veal to a plate.
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7
Discard fat from pot and add remaining 2 tablespoons oil.
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8
Add pancetta and saute over medium-high heat until it begins to brown.
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9
Add onions and saute until softened, about 8 minutes.
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10
Drain porcini in a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing on mushrooms and reserving wine.
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11
Coarsely chop porcini and add to pancetta mixture with carrots, celery, and garlic.
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12
Saute until softened, about 8 minutes.
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13
Stir in wine and cook until most has evaporated, about 2 minutes.
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14
Coarsely chop tomatoes and add to pot with their juice.
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15
Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.
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16
Add veal with meat juices from plate, rosemary, bay leaves, and olives.
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17
Cover pot and braise veal in oven, turning roast occasionally, until center of meat is fork-tender, 2 3/4 to 3 hours.
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18
Transfer veal to a cutting board and let stand, loosely covered.
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19
Simmer sauce over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes.
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20
Season with salt and a pinch of sugar if desired.
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21
Cut off strings from roast and discard bay leaves and rosemary.
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22
Thickly slice veal and return to pot, basting with sauce.