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1
Turn on the oven to 350 degrees.
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2
With a food processor or blender running, drop in the garlic and chiles one piece at a time, letting each piece get finely chopped before adding the next.
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3
Add the tomatillos and cilantro; process until smooth.
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4
Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil or bacon drippings in a medium (3-quart) saucepan over medium-high.
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5
Add the puree and cook, stirring nearly constantly, until the mixture has reduced to the consistency of thick tomato sauce, about 7 minutes.
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6
(The more you cook down this base, the richer and sweeter the tomatillo sauce will be.)
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7
Add the chicken broth and simmer over medium heat for about 10 minutes to blend the flavors.
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8
While the sauce is simmering, heat the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil or bacon drippings in a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high.
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9
Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring nearly constantly, for a couple of minutes, until they begin to brown.
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10
Add about three-quarters of the onion (reserve the rest for garnish) and continue cooking, stirring frequently, for another minute or two, until the onion looks translucent.
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11
Add the spinach and optional chicken or ham and cook, stirring constantly, for a minute or so, until the spinach is wilted.
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12
Season with salt, usually a scant teaspoon.
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13
Cover to keep warm.
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14
Lay out the tortillas on a baking sheet and spray or brush lightly on both sides with oil or bacon drippings, then stack them in twos.
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15
Slide the tortillas into the oven and bake just long enough to make them soft and pliable, about 3 minutes.
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16
Remove from the oven and stack them in a single pile; cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm.
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17
Stir the cream (or its stand-in) into the sauce.
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18
Taste and season with salt, usually about 1 teaspoon (add the sugar if the sauce seems quite tart to you).
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19
Holding a tortilla by one edge, dip most of it into the sauce, then lay it on a plate.
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20
Spoon a heaping 2 tablespoons filling down the center, roll up and lay seam side down in a dinner plate.
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21
Repeat with 2 more tortillas, arranging them on the same dinner plate.
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22
Douse the enchiladas with about 1/4 cup of the warm sauce, sprinkle with a quarter of the crumbled cheese and garnish with some of the reserved onion and cilantro sprigs.
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23
Assemble the rest of the servings, and carry to the table without hesitation.