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1
Slice the mushrooms thickly.
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2
Put them into a pan with the cold milk (and cream if using).
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3
Three-quarters cover the pan and bring quickly to a fast simmer.
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4
Add the bay leaf and a little salt and reduce the heat to very low.
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5
Three-quarters cover the pan again and leave to stew gently for 5 to 6 minutes.
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6
Strain to separate the liquid from the mushrooms, discard the bay leaf and keep the mushrooms warm in a very low oven.
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7
Make a smooth rich sauce with the butter, flour and creamy mushroom cooking liquor.
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8
Stir in at least 1/2 teaspoon each tarragon vinegar and anchovy essence.
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9
Leave to simmer for 2 to 3 minutes then season to taste with salt and pepper.
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10
Quickly stir in the queens and immediately reduce heat to low.
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11
Half cover the pan and cook for just 5 minutes.
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12
Stir occasionally during this time and be sure to keep the heat very low - only a very occasional bubble should break the surface of the sauce or the shellfish may toughen.
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13
Draw the pan away from the heat, quickly stir in the mushrooms and check seasoning.
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14
Then turn the contents of the pan into a warmed gratin dish (or divide it between warmed scallop shells for an elegant first course).
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15
Sprinkle with parsley and garnish with fried crumbs or triangles of fried bread.
