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1
Heat the oven to 300 degrees F and arrange a rack in the middle.
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2
Coat two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans with butter and flour; set aside.
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3
Combine flour, baking soda, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt in a large bowl and whisk to aerate and break up any lumps; set aside.
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4
Place butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium-high speed until pale yellow, about 3 minutes.
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5
Add brown sugar, and continue beating until fluffy, about 3 minutes.
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6
Add eggs one at a time, letting each mix in fully before adding the next.
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7
Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
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8
Return the mixer to medium-high speed, add molasses and lemon zest, and beat until combined.
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9
Reduce speed to low and mix in 1/3 of the flour mixture.
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10
Add 1/4 cup of the brandy, another 1/3 of the flour mixture, the remaining 1/4 cup brandy, and finally the last 1/3 of the flour.
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11
Mix until flour is just incorporated and batter is smooth.
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12
Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in remaining ingredients.
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13
Divide batter evenly between the prepared pans.
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14
Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 1/2 hours.
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15
Let cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before removing from the pan.
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16
Turn cakes out onto the rack and cool completely before slicing and eating, or aging.
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17
To age, brush each cake with 1/4 cup brandy, and then completely bury each in 4 pounds of powdered sugar for up to 4 months.