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1
On one-half of a grill fitted with a cover, build a small charcoal fire, about the size of a loaf of commercial sandwich bread, making sure all the charcoal becomes engulfed in flame.
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2
Place the ribs meat-side down on a baking sheet or cutting board and remove the papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a small knife beneath it and levering it up to give you enough to gain purchase with a dish towel.
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3
Peel off the membrane and discard.
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4
Mix the salt, pepper, brown sugar, paprika and, if you choose, red-pepper flakes in a bowl, breaking up the brown sugar with a fork.
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5
Using your hands, cover the meat entirely in this rub.
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6
When the flames begin to die down, leaving flickering coals, place the rib racks meat-side up on the half of the grill without the burning charcoal.
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7
Do not let the flames touch the meat at any time.
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8
Add a handful of the hickory chips to the fire.
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9
Cover the grill, vent slightly and cook, adding a handful of hickory chips every 30 minutes and a bit more fuel as necessary, until the meat is crusty, soft to the touch and well browned, about two and a half hours.
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10
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
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11
Set the ribs on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for around 5 hours.
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12
Cut into individual portions.
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13
Serve with extra napkins and, if you choose, barbecue sauce.
