Salt-and-Pepper Beef Ribs

1. 1

   On one-half of a grill fitted with a cover, build a small charcoal fire, about the size of a loaf of commercial sandwich bread, making sure all the charcoal becomes engulfed in flame.

2. 2

   Place the ribs meat-side down on a baking sheet or cutting board and remove the papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a small knife beneath it and levering it up to give you enough to gain purchase with a dish towel.

3. 3

   Peel off the membrane and discard.

4. 4

   Mix the salt, pepper, brown sugar, paprika and, if you choose, red-pepper flakes in a bowl, breaking up the brown sugar with a fork.

5. 5

   Using your hands, cover the meat entirely in this rub.

6. 6

   When the flames begin to die down, leaving flickering coals, place the rib racks meat-side up on the half of the grill without the burning charcoal.

7. 7

   Do not let the flames touch the meat at any time.

8. 8

   Add a handful of the hickory chips to the fire.

9. 9

   Cover the grill, vent slightly and cook, adding a handful of hickory chips every 30 minutes and a bit more fuel as necessary, until the meat is crusty, soft to the touch and well browned, about two and a half hours.

10. 10

    Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

11. 11

    Set the ribs on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for around 5 hours.

12. 12

    Cut into individual portions.

13. 13

    Serve with extra napkins and, if you choose, barbecue sauce.

* Per serving · 4 servings · Values may vary.