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Whether you choose the verdant, slushy, herby freshness of the all-raw tomatillo salsa or the oil-colored, voluptuous, sweet-sour richness of the roasted version, tomatillos are about brightening tang.
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The buzz of the fresh hot green chile adds thrill, all of which adds up to a condiment most of us simply don't want to live without.
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For the All-Raw version: Roughly chop the tomatillos and the chiles.
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In a blender or food processor, combine the tomatillos, chiles, cilantro and 1/4 cup water.
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Process to a coarse puree, then scrape into a serving dish.
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Rinse the onion under cold water, then shake to remove excess moisture.
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Stir into the salsa and season with salt, usually a generous 1/4 teaspoon.
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For the Roasted version:
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Preheat a broiler.
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Roast the tomatillos and chiles on a baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler until darkly roasted, even blackened in spots, about 5 minutes.
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Flip them over and roast the other side, 4 to 5 minutes more will give you splotchy-black and blistered tomatillos and chiles.
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In a blender or food processor, combine the tomatillos and chiles, including all the delicious juice that has run onto the baking sheet.
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Add the cilantro and 1/4 cup water, blend to a coarse puree, and scrape into a serving dish.
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Rinse the onion under cold water, then shake to remove the excess moisture.
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Stir into the salsa and season with salt, usually a generous 1/4 teaspoon.