Roast Quail

Season the quails inside and out very thoroughly, being especially heavy on the salt.

In a hot frying pan, with a small splash of olive oil, brown the quails all over.

When you are satisfied with their color place them on a lightly oiled roasting pan and place in a hot 425p oven for 20 minutes or so.

Despite the quails fragile reputation it is robust when it comes to cooking, not having the drying out potential of the partridge or the angst of getting that perfect moment of blush in a grouse breast.

The quail wants plenty of cooking, to the point that its legs can be pulled easily from the ribcage, and the flesh sucked off the leg bone.

Serve the quail salty and well done in a bowl in the middle of the table and encourage some hands-on eating.

Serve with a bowl of lentils or simply a watercress salad.