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1
Put the stock in a medium saucepan and turn the heat to low; add the saffron.
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2
Put 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large deep nonstick skillet and turn the heat to medium.
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3
(Allow the remaining butter to soften while you cook.)
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4
When its hot, add the onion, along with the meat if youre using it, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, 3 to 5 minutes.
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5
Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with butter, 2 to 3 minutes.
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6
Add a little salt and pepper, then the white wine.
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7
Stir and let the liquid bubble away.
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8
Use a ladle to begin to add the warmed stock, 1/2 cup or so at a time, stirring after each addition and every minute or so.
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9
When the stock is just about evaporated, add more.
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10
The mixture should be neither soupy nor dry.
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11
Keep the heat medium to medium-high and stir frequently.
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12
Begin tasting the rice 20 minutes after you add it; you want it to be tender but with still a tiny bit of crunch; it could take as long as 30 minutes to reach this stage.
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13
When it does, stir in the softened butter and Parmesan.
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14
Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.
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15
A compromise, but still a very good dish in a pinch: Use water instead of stock and 2 tablespoons olive oil at the beginning of cooking (its still worth stirring in a tablespoon of butter at the end).
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16
Omit the marrow and, if you must, the saffron.
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17
Lighter, more delicate, and perfectly fine when made with water instead of stock: Omit the saffron and marrow.
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18
In step 1, replace the onion with 2 or 3 chopped shallots, 1 celery stalk, chopped, and 1 fresh rosemary sprig (or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary).
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19
In step 4, when the rice is almost done, stir in the grated zest of 1 lemon.
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20
Stir in the juice of the lemon, along with the butter, at the very end.
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21
For extra richness, add 1/2 cup heavy cream if you like and cook for another minute, stirring.
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22
Add the Parmesan and serve.
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23
Omit the saffron, meat, and white wine.
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24
Substitute good red winesomething made with nebbiolo or sangiovese grapes will give you a taste most like that youd have in Italyfor the stock.
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25
Both butter and Parmesan are needed to cut the wines acidity.
