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1
To make the duxelles, first chop the 6 oz mushrooms plus the stalks from the big flat mushrooms on which you will sit the quails.
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2
Chop finely, using a knife, not a food processor.
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3
Mix in 1 very finely chopped garlic clove, about 9 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, 3 tablespoons snipped chives and 1 heaped tablespoon fresh tarragon (or a generous 1 1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon if fresh is not available).
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4
Cook the mixture in a little butter over moderate heat for 3 minutes or so, stirring often.
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5
Season well with salt, pepper and about 2 teaspoons lemon juice.
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6
Let the duxelles cool before using it to stuff the birds.
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7
Spread it gently between the flesh and the skin, all over the breast area, to plump up the quails prettily.
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8
Secure the flap of neck skin under each bird with a wooden toothpick.
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9
If the skin is torn, put the stuffing into the body cavities instead.
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10
Tie up the legs of each bird to keep it neatly shaped.
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11
Make about 5 oz garlic butter and reserve it.
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12
Choose a roasting tin or baking dish just large enough to take the 6 flat mushrooms side by side.
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13
When ready to cook, melt a nugget of the garlic butter in the roasting tin.
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14
Turn the birds in it to coat them with fat, then arrange them, breast down, on a rack suspended across the roasting tin.
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15
Bake at 425F (220C) (220 C) gas mark 7 for 15 minutes.
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16
Put the mushrooms in the tin, arranging them gill side up, and dot them with the rest of the garlic butter.
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17
Put the rack of quails back on top of the tin and turn the birds breast side up.
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18
Position the birds carefully, placing each one above a mushroom so that the meat juices will drip on to the mushrooms during cooking.
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19
Bake for 20 minutes or so until the birds and mushrooms are perfectly cooked.
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20
Sit the birds on the mushrooms and serve straight away, or cover and keep hot at 250 F (120 C) gas mark 1/2 until ready to serve.
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21
Rice, couscous or burghul, and crisp peppery watercress go well with this dish.
