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1
Rinse the tongue and then soak it in plenty of cold water for at least 12 hours.
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2
Change the water once or more during this time.
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3
Next day choose a heavy-based saucepan or flameproof casserole that will hold the tongue snugly.
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4
Put the tongue into it, cover with cold water, bring to the boil and skim.
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5
Taste the water; if it is very salty, tip it away, add fresh water and bring to the boil again.
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6
Add the chopped vegetables, peppercorns and a bouquet of bay, parsley and rosemary.
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7
Cover tightly and cook very gently on top of the stove or in an oven heated to 300F (150C) (150 C) gas mark 2 for about 4 hours until the tongue is so tender that a skewer will go through the root end like butter.
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8
Lower the temperature as necessary; the meat will be best if barely a bubble breaks the surface of the liquid as it cooks.
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9
Skin the cooked tongue while it is still hot.
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10
Then cut away the fat and gristle from the end and remove all small bones if the butcher has not already done this.
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11
Skim off all the fat from the cooking liquor and save it for the sauce and for soups.
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12
If the tongue is to be served hot, carve it in thin slices while it is still hot and arrange it prettily, overlapping slices like tiles, on a large warmed serving dish.
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13
Pour some good hot sauce over it, cover the dish with foil and place in the oven for about 10 minutes to heat through.
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14
The spiced Kumquat Sauce recipe is one of my favourites and I like to serve extra in a sauce boat.
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15
If the tongue is to be served cold, mould and glaze it while still warm.
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16
Curl the tongue to make it fit a small round container with straight sides.
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17
Traditional tongue-presses usually measure about 5 to 6 inches in diameter; a cake tin or souffle dish of similar size will do just as well.
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18
To glaze, melt 2 teaspoons gelatine powder in 1 tablespoon water, then blend in a scant 1/2 pint tongue cooking liquor (seasoned and reduced as necessary for good flavour), and give it a little oomph with 1 to 2 tablespoons Madeira.
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19
Pour over the tongue as much of the liquid jelly as is needed to fill gaps.
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20
Press the tongue down with a saucer or plate which fits just inside the tin, weight it down heavily and leave overnight in a cold larder until meat and jelly are set.
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21
Chill any left-over jelly separately so that it can be diced and used to garnish the tongue when it is served.
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22
Unmould the tongue on to a flat dish for serving.
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23
Decorate it and accompany it with a fine sauce such as a classic Cumberland sauce or Piquant Parsley and Caper Sauce.
