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To make the yogurt:
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Line a colander with muslin or cheesecloth.
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Place the colander over a large mixing bowl.
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Place the yogurt in the colander, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to overnight.
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Discard the liquid in the bowl.
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Transfer the yogurt cheese to a small mixing bowl and use immediately or cover and refrigerate up to 4 days.
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(Yield: 2 cups)
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To make the burgers:
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Place the lamb, mint, basil, rosemary and fennel in a large bowl and, using your hands, mix until the ingredients are evenly incorporated.
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Place the mixture on a work surface and divide into 4 balls of equal size.
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Form each into a patty about 3/4 to 1 inch thick, tossing it back and forth between your hands.
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To ensure more even cooking, make a 1/2-inch indentation with your thumb in the center of the burger.
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Handle the patties as little as possible; do not work more than necessary.
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Prepare a grill to medium-high.
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When the coals are glowing red, after 15 to 20 minutes, cover with the grate.
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After 5 minutes, use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the grate.
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Brush the grate with oil.
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When the coals are covered with pale gray ash and you can leave your hand 5 inches above the fire for 2 to 3 seconds, the coals are ready.
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Sprinkle both sides of the burgers with the salt and pepper.
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Place the burgers on the grate and grill until well seared on both sides, about 4 minutes for medium rare or 5 minutes for medium.
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Transfer to pita bread pockets or a serving platter and serve immediately with yogurt and/or lemon quarters.
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Alternatively, place a cast iron skillet over high heat and when it is hot but not smoking add the burgers to the dry pan.
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Cook until well seared on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes for medium rare or 10 to 12 minutes for medium.