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1
Combine the chilies, shallots, candlenuts, galangal, ginger, lemongrass, coriander seeds, turmeric, and salt in a mortar and pestle and pound into
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2
(a smooth paste). Or use a food processor, adding a few drops of oil as needed.
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3
Heat the oil in a large pan and add the
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4
. Stir continuously over a low heat until fragrant, about 30 minutes.
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5
Add the dried shrimp powder, stirring for about 5 minutes, then add water and simmer for another 30 minutes.
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6
Add half the thick coconut milk, a teaspoon at a time, stirring continuously.
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7
Stir in the laksa leaves.
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8
Add the thin coconut milk a teaspoon at a time, stirring continuously.
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9
Add the rest of the thick coconut milk as before, and simmer at medium heat for another 30 minutes. The broth should be thick but still soupy. Add fish stock or water to thin, as needed.
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10
Add the fish cakes, shrimp, and cockles to the broth, and simmer until the cockles open and the shrimp are cooked, about three minutes. Season with more salt and sugar, as needed.
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11
In a separate pot, cook the rice noodles according to package directions, then drain.
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12
Fry slices of the tofu in vegetable oil until golden, about two minutes, and season with salt. Set aside.
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13
To serve, divide noodles and bean sprouts among four large bowls. Fill each with the broth, then top with even portions of fish cakes, cockles, shrimp, and tofu.
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14
Garnish with laksa leaf, chili, and a spoonful of
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15
.
