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1
Make the starter: In a small heavy pot, whisk flour, milk and 1/2 cup water (120 milliliters) together until smooth.
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2
Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, stirring often, until thickened but still pourable, about 10 minutes (it will thicken more as it cools).
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3
When its ready, the spoon will leave tracks on the bottom of the pot.
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4
Scrape into a measuring cup and lightly cover the surface with plastic wrap.
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5
Set aside to cool to room temperature.
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6
(You will have about 1 cup starter; see note below.)
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7
Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, sugar, yeast and salt and mix for a few seconds, just until evenly combined.
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8
Add egg, milk and 1/2 cup starter.
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9
Turn the mixer on low speed and knead 5 minutes.
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10
Add soft butter and knead another 10 to 12 minutes (it will take a few minutes for butter to be incorporated), until the dough is smooth and springy and just a bit tacky.
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11
Lightly butter the inside of a bowl.
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12
Use your hands to lift dough out of mixer bowl, shape into a ball and place in prepared bowl.
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13
Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 40 to 60 minutes.
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14
Punch the dough down and use your hands to scoop it out onto a surface.
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15
Using a bench scraper or a large knife, cut dough in half.
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16
Lightly form each half into a ball, cover again and let rise 15 minutes.
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17
Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
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18
In the meantime, generously butter a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.
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19
Using a rolling pin, gently roll out one dough ball into a thick oval.
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20
(By this time, the dough should be moist and no longer sticky.
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21
You probably will not need to flour the surface, but you may want to flour the pin.)
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22
First roll away from your body, then pull in, until the oval is about 12 inches long and 6 inches across.
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23
Fold the top 3 inches of the oval down, then fold the bottom 3 inches of the oval up, making a rough square.
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24
Starting from the right edge of the square, roll up the dough into a fat log, pick it up and smooth the top with your hands.
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25
Place the log in the buttered pan, seam side down and crosswise, nestling it near one end of the pan.
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26
Repeat with the other dough ball, placing it near the other end of the pan.
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27
Cover and let rest 30 to 40 minutes more, until the risen dough is peeking over the edge of the pan and the dough logs are meeting in the center.
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28
Brush the tops with milk and bake on the bottom shelf of the oven until golden brown and puffed, 35 to 40 minutes.
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29
Let cool in the pan 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack and let cool at least 1 hour, to let the crust soften and keep the crumb lofty.
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30
(If cut too soon, the air bubbles trapped in the bread will deflate.)
