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1
To poach the octopus, adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 300F.
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2
In a braising pot just big enough to hold the octopus, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat until it is almost smoking and slides easily in the pan, 2 to 3 minutes.
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3
Add the octopus and sear it for 8 to 10 minutes, turning to cook all sides evenly, until the octopus is burgundy all over and browned in places.
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4
Remove the octopus to a plate and wipe out the pot.
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5
In the pot you seared the octopus in, heat the garlic cloves with 2 tablespoons of the remaining olive oil and saute the garlic over medium-high heat, stirring often, until it is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
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6
Turn off the heat.
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7
Remove and discard the garlic cloves and return the octopus to the pot.
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8
Add the red pepper flakes, wine cork, and enough olive oil to cover the octopus.
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9
Put the lid on the pot and place it in the oven for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the octopus is very tender; it will puncture and tear easily with a fork.
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10
Remove the pot from the oven, and set it aside to allow the octopus to cool to room temperature in the oil.
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11
Remove the octopus from the oil, reserving the oil to poach another octopus within a week, and place the octopus on a baking sheet.
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12
(If you are going to reuse the oil, strain it and refrigerate it until you are ready to use it.)
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13
Cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap and refrigerate the octopus overnight or for at least several hours.
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14
Lay the octopus on a cutting board and spread out the tentacles like the petals of a flower.
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15
Use a large knife to cut the octopus in half through the body, keeping the tentacles intact.
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Working from the body outward as if you were cutting off the petals of the flower, cut each tentacle to remove it from the head.
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Turn the head inside out, scrape out and discard any guck left inside the head, and cut the head into quarters.
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18
Cut the body into 2-inch segments, leaving the ends of each tentacle long for their dramatic effect on the plate, and place all of the octopus pieces in a medium bowl or a large, nonreactive baking dish.
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19
To make the marinade, combine the parsley, olive oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes in the bowl of a miniature food processor fitted with a metal blade or the jar of a blender and puree.
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20
Drizzle the marinade over the octopus and toss to coat it with the marinade.
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21
Cover the bowl or dish tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate the octopus until you are ready to grill it or for up to three days.
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22
To make the salad, steam the potatoes until they are tender when pierced with a small sharp knife, about 20 minutes.
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23
Remove the potatoes to a plate until they are cool enough to touch.
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24
Use a small, sharp knife to remove the peel from the potatoes and discard the peels.
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25
Slice the potatoes into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, place them in a small bowl, and set aside.
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26
While the potatoes are cooking, fill a large saucepan with water, bring the water to a boil over high heat, and salt it to taste like the ocean, adding approximately 1 tablespoon of salt to each quart of water.
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27
Fill a bowl with ice water.
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28
Place the leek in a fine-mesh strainer and plunge into the boiling water to blanch it for 1 minute.
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29
Lift the strainer out of the water and immediately plunge the strainer into the ice water for about 1 minute to cool the leek.
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30
Remove the strainer from the water and turn the leek out onto paper towels to drain.
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31
Prepare a hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill or preheat a grill pan.
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32
Season the potatoes with the 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and toss to distribute the salt evenly over the potato slices.
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Add the leek, scallions, sliced celery, and celery leaves to the bowl with the potatoes.
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Season the salad with salt and pepper, drizzle with 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette, and toss to coat with the seasonings.
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35
Taste for seasoning and add more vinaigrette, salt, and pepper, if desired.
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36
Pile the salad in the center of four plates, dividing it equally and reserving any vinaigrette left in the bottom of the bowl.
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Have the bowl with the reserved vinaigrette nearby and grill the octopus pieces until they are charred on all sides, about 3 minutes total.
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Remove the octopus pieces from the grill as they are done and place them in the bowl with the vinaigrette you tossed the salad with.
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Drizzle with another 1/4 cup of the vinaigrette and toss to coat the octopus with the vinaigrette.
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40
Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if desired.
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41
Stack the octopus pieces on top of the salads, dividing them evenly and reserving the long dramatic tentacles for the tops of the salads.
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42
Squeeze a few drops of lemon over each serving of octopus.
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43
Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette over and around each salad.
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44
Scatter a few chive batonettes over the top of each plate, and serve.
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45
Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi (The Marches)