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PREPARE THE PAPAYAS:.
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In a small saucepan, combine the unseasoned rice vinegar with 1/2 cup of sugar, 1 cup of water, the mustard seeds, peppercorns, star anise, clove and 2 tablespoons of sea salt.
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Bring the pickling liquid to a boil.
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Put the ripe papaya in a heatproof bowl and pour the hot pickling liquid over it.
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Let stand for 1 hour, until cool.
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Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, combine the remaining 1 1/2 cups of sugar with the remaining 3 cups of water and the mint sprigs and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
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Add the green papaya and cook over moderate heat until tender, about 45 minutes.
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Strain the papaya and let cool slightly; discard the mint.
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Transfer the cooked papaya to a blender and puree until smooth.
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Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate until cold.
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MAKE THE COCONUT BROTH:.
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In a small skillet, toast the coriander seeds, fennel seeds, whole cloves, allspice berries and star anise pod over moderate heat, shaking the pan until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
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Transfer the toasted spices to a plate to cool.
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Heat the vegetable oil in a medium saucepan.
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Add the chopped carrot, celery, onion, ginger and lemongrass and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the vegetables are softened, about 7 minutes.
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Add the toasted spices and the wine to the saucepan and cook over moderately high heat until the wine has evaporated, about 5 minutes.
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Add the coconut milk, 6 lime zest strips, basil and cilantro and bring to a boil.
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Cover and let stand off the heat for 30 minutes.
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Strain the coconut broth through a fine sieve set over a medium bowl, pressing hard on the solids with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible.
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OR use a stick to create a pure.
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Refrigerate the coconut broth until well chilled.
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Put it together:.
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Drain the pickled papaya and pick out the peppercorns, star anise and cloves; pat the papaya dry.
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Add the green papaya puree, lime juice and cold water to the coconut broth; season with salt and hot sauce.
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At the end, mix the soup with an immersion blender to get it creamier and airierand serve it ice cold.
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Ladle the papaya soup into shallow bowls, mound the pickled papaya in the center of each bowl.
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Put crab, lobster, shrimp or fish on top (optional).
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Garnish the papaya soup with lime zest and serve at once.
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MAKE AHEAD:.
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The green papaya puree and the coconut broth can be refrigerated separately overnight.
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The drained pickled papaya can be refrigerated overnight.