Granny Fosters Bread and Butter Pickles

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   Place the cucumbers and onion in a large bowl with the salt and garlic.

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   Cover with ice and toss to mix.

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   Let stand for 3 hours to crisp, then drain well, removing any ice that has not yet melted.

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   Do not rinse.

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   If preserving the pickles, sterilize six 1-pint heat-tempered canning jars (see Know-how, page 291).

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   Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, and turmeric in a large pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

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   Cook and stir until the sugar dissolves.

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   Add the cucumbers, onion, and garlic, bring back to a boil, and remove immediately from the heat.

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   For refrigerator pickles, refrigerate in airtight containers for two weeks to allow flavors to develop, or for up to 1 month.

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    For preserved pickles, pack in the sterilized jars, leaving 1/2 inch of headspace, and process in a hot water bath for about 10 minutes to vacuum-seal (see Know-how, page 291).

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    Let cool to room temperature, check the seal, and store in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks to allow flavors to develop before serving, or for up to 6 months.

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    Refrigerate after opening.

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    Pickling cucumbers are firm-fleshed, small-seeded varieties that hold up especially well to pickling, meaning they keep their crunch, and they are the ones I recommend using; some of the most common varieties are Kirbys and gherkins.

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    When selecting the cucumbers, make sure they are no longer than the jars you are putting them in; for pint jars they should be 4 1/2 to 5 inches or less.

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    If your cucumbers are larger, use quart jars or trim the ends.

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    There is something so rewarding about opening up a jar of Sour Cherry Preserves (page 304) or Green Tomato Chow-Chow (page 300) long after the berries and tomatoes of summer have given way to winter.

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    Happily, making your own preserves is really very easy.

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    All you need to get started are a few inexpensive pieces of equipment and an understanding of a few basic techniques.

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    Heres everything you need to know:

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    1 or 2 large, heavy nonreactive metal pots

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    Sterile, heat-tempered glass canning jars, such as Ball or Kerr brand, plus an equal number of lids and rings.

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    Tongs, for lifting the jars out of the water bath

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    Funnel, for cleanly filling jars

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    Canning rack, for loading jars securely in the water bath

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    Magnetic lid lifter, to lift sterilized lids without touching them

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    The first step in canning is always to sterilize or scald the jars (including the lids and rings) in which the food will be stored.

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    This ensures a safe, clean environment and minimizes the risk of spoilage or bacterial growth.

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    This step is especially important if the recipe calls for processing in a water bath for less than 10 minutes.

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    To sterilize, place the jars, lids, and rings in a large pot, cover with water, and boil for 10 to 15 minutes.

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    Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the pot, covered, until ready to fill.

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    Drain and carefully fill the hot jars according to the recipe, taking care not to touch the rims or interiors with your bare hands.

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    Use a funnel if possible.

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    When filling the jars with raw vegetables, such as cucumbers, to make pickles, pack the vegetables as tightly as possible, pressing down with your fingers as you fill the jars.

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    If making pickles in a brine, be sure the vegetables are completely covered with the pickling liquid.

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    Make sure to leave the headspace recommended in the recipe (typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch, depending on the acidity of the food); this ensures the jars seal properly.

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    Remove any air bubbles before sealing by tapping each jar on the counter a few times or stirring with a sterilized spoon or chopstick.

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    Wipe the rims using a clean cloth, place the lids on the jars, and screw on the rings until secure but not fully tightened.

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    This is the method I use when making jams, fruit preserves, and chutneys.

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    Pack the jars as noted above.

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    The jam, preserves, or chutney should be boiling when packed in the hot, sterilized jars.

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    This is key to ensuring that the jars seal correctly.

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    Place the sterilized lids on the jars and screw on the rings until secure but not fully tightened.

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    Invert the closed jars for about 2 minutes and then turn them upright (this allows the hot liquid to soften the rubber on the lid, thus ensuring a tight seal).

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    This is the method I use to preserve pickles and relishes.

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    Always bring the water bath to a good rolling boil before you begin.

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    Reduce the heat and keep it at a simmer after the filled jars have been added; rapidly boiling water may cause water to leak into the jars.

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    Using tongs or a canning rack, carefully lower the jars into the boiling water until fully submerged, making sure they are not touching.

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    Cover and simmer according to the recipe (typically 10 to 20 minutes, depending on what you are processing).

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    You may need to adjust the cooking time for altitude.

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    For altitudes between 1,000 and 6,000 feet, add 5 minutes; between 6,000 and 12,000 feet, add 10 minutes.

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    When you are done processing, turn off the heat and let the jars sit in the water for another 5 minutes.

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    Remove the jars from the water and let sit undisturbed until completely cool, about 5 hours or overnight.

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    As the jars cool down you should be able to hear the lids popping, a sign that they are sealing correctly.

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    When the jars have cooled completely, tighten the rings all the way.

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    Check the seal on each lid.

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    If sealed properly, the center will be slightly depressed and will not pop when pressed.

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    If any of the lids havent sealed, store those jars in the refrigerator for up to 1 to 2 months and use first.

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    Using labels or a permanent marker, clearly mark the jars with the packing date.

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    Store in a cool, dark place until ready to use.

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    Most perserves will keep for 6 months to 1 year.

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    Refrigerate after opening and use within 1 to 2 months.

* Per serving · 4 servings · Values may vary.