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the potato salad:
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put the potatoes, unpeeled, into a pot that's large enough to cover them with 4 inches of cold water. Cook until just tender.
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When the potatoes are cooked, turn off the heat but leave them in the pan with the hot water. Cut each potato into slices that are about 1/2 inch thick. They should be hot while you are cutting them. Sprinkle a teaspoon or so of vinegar on the slices after each potato has been cut.
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While the potatoes are cooking, saute the bacon in a skillet large enough to hold the potatoes and the fennel. While the bacon is cooking, chop the herbs.
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When the bacon is done, remove it from the pan and drain all but two or three tablespoons of the bacon fat. Coarsely chop the bacon into 1-4 to 1/2 inch pieces.
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If you are using celery, add it to the skillet and heat very briefly. Deglaze the pan over low heat very briefly, using 2-3 tablespoons of vinegar from the fennel relish. If you don't have that much left after sprinkling it on the potatoes, add some fresh vinegar. Turn off the heat.
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Add mustard, to taste, and stir. If the mustard or the vinegar from the fennel is too sharp for your taste, add a teaspoon or two of maple syrup.
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Add the fennel relish and stir well over a low heat. Add the bacon and parsley (plus the chopped celery leaves and fennel leaves, if you are using them). Toss to combine. Turn off the heat.
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Finally, add the potato slices and very gently toss.
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Serve warm or at room temperature.
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the relish:
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Peel, remove the tops and hard bottom from, and finely chop the fennel bulb. You should have about one cup, chopped.
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Chop the bright green leaves of the fennel, if there are any, to add with the fresh herbs in the potato salad, and set aside.
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Put the chopped fennel in a small heavy saucepan with the remaining ingredients.
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Simmer for about four minutes, then turn the heat off and let sit for another ten minutes or so.
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Drain and reserve the vinegar, to use in the potato salad
