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VADOUVAN:.
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(Make ahead).
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Preheat oven to 350F with rack in middle.
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Pulse onions in 3 batches in a food processor until very coarsely chopped (there may be a few large pieces remaining), transferring to a bowl.
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Repeat with shallots, then garlic.
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Heat oil in a deep 12-inch heavy nonstick skillet over high heat until it shimmers, then saute onions, shallots, and garlic (stir often) until golden and browned in spots, 25 to 30 minutes.
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Grind fenugreek seeds in grinder or with mortar and pestle.
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Add to onion mixture along with remaining ingredients, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper and stir until combined.
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Transfer to a parchment-paper-lined large 4-sided sheet pan and spread as thinly and evenly as possible.
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Bake, stirring occasionally with a skewer to separate onions, until well browned and barely moist, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.
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*COOKS NOTE: Vadouvan keeps in the refrigerator 1 month (cool before covering) or in the freezer 6 months.
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MAKE STOCK:
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Heat oil in a heavy medium pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers.
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Cook backbones and wing tips until well browned on all sides.
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Add water and bring to a boil, skimming froth occasionally.
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Add 3 cups reserved chopped leek greens, plus remaining ingredients and boil, uncovered, 30 minutes.
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Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan, pressing on and then discarding solids.
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Boil stock until reduced to about 2 cups.
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MAKE FRICASSEE:
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Pat hens dry and season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.
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Heat oil in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers.
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Brown hens in batches (without crowding), turning once, about 8 minutes per batch.
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Transfer to a plate.
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Halve white and pale green parts of leeks lengthwise, then cut into 1-inch pieces and wash.
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Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from skillet, then cook leeks with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally and scraping up brown bits, until leeks begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
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Add wine and bring to a boil.
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Stir in stock, cream, and vadouvan.
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Nestle hens, skin sides up, into leeks.
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Cover with a round of parchment paper.
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Gently simmer 10 minutes.
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Remove parchment and simmer until hens are cooked through, about 10 minutes more.
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Transfer hens to a platter and simmer sauce to thicken slightly if desired.
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*COOKS NOTE: Fricassee can be made 1 day ahead and chilled.
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Reheat gently.
