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1
Beat the egg yolks, sugar, and brown sugar in a bowl with a whisk or electric mixer at medium speed until the still grainy, pale brown mixture has the texture of beaten batter, about 3 minutes; set aside.
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2
Heat the milk and cream in a medium saucepan over medium heat just until bubbles frizzle all around the pan's inner edge; whisk in the espresso powder.
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3
Whisk about 1/3 of the hot milk mixture into the beaten yolk mixture until smooth, then whisk this combined mixture into the remainder of the milk mixture in the pan.
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4
Instantly decrease the heat to very low; if you have an electric stove, use a second burner just now turned on low.
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5
Stir constantly, gently heating the custard until a few puffs of steam rise from its surface and it is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes.
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6
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl to remove any bits of egg that have inadvertently scrambled, taking care not to scrape out any solids than may have cooked onto the bottom of the pan.
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7
Stir in the vanilla and salt.
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8
Chill in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
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9
Just before you make the gelato, place the custard and your ice cream machine's dasher, if possible, in the freezer for 10 minutes, just to shock them cold.
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10
Freeze in your ice cream machine according to the instruction booklet.
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11
Serve at once, or transfer to a container and store in the freezer for up to1 month; soften at room temperature for up to 10 minutes before serving.
