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1
In a large pot over a lively flame, bring the wine to a simmer and add the mussels, poaching them, and removing them to a large bowl as they open.
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2
When all the mussels have opened, reduce the cooking liquor to 3/4 cup and set it aside.
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3
When the mussels are cool enough to handle, remove the flesh from the shells to a holding plate.
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4
Discard the shells.
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5
In a very large saute pan over a medium flame, warm the olive oil and soften the garlic, taking care not to color it.
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6
Rinse the anchovies.
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7
Remove the anchovies heads and bones, dry on paper towels, and crush lightly with a fork.
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8
Add the anchovies and the chile, tossing them about in the oil for a minute or two before adding the mussels, the reduced cooking liquor, and the vinegar.
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9
Permit the mussels to simmer gently for a minute or two.
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10
Set the mussels aside to cool.
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11
When the mussels have cooled, transfer them to a large bowl, cover them tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
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12
Toss with the parsley and present the mussels as an antipasto or a main dish with olive-oil-oven-toasted bread and cold white wine.
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13
These two recipes (page 75) from Napolis cucina povera are ministrations for the dispirited, dishes to stay the ogres.
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14
Conjured from almost nothing, yet giving forth perfumes of security and nostalgia, they promise comfort, they stimulate, revive, as might the flump of a cork being slipped from its bottle or a kiss, hung softly and low on the nape of the neck.
