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1. Noodles: Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Off heat, add rice sticks, and let sit until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and distribute among four bowls.
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2. Broth: Bring all ingredients to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low; simmer partially covered to blend flavors, about 20 minutes. Remove solids with slotted spoon and discard. Cover and keep hot over low heat until ready to serve.
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3. Season steak with salt and pepper. Heat oil in medium skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add half of steak slices in single layer and sear until well-browned, 1 to 2 minutes on each side; set aside. Repeat with remaining slices.
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4. Divide the noodles and sprouts among the bowls, (see illustrations below).
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5. Add the steak, then ladle in the broth.
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6. Sprinkle on the remaining ingredients and serve immediately, passing lime wedges separately.
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STEP BY STEP: Bruising the aromatics
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Using the handle or back of a chef's knife, smash the ginger, garlic, and lemon grass to release flavor.
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STEP BY STEP: Assembling the Soup
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1. Divide the noodles and sprouts or cabbage among the bowls.
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2. Add the meat, seafood, or chicken, then ladle in the broth.
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3. Sprinkle on the herbs and other flavorings of choice.
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Red Chile Sauce:
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In a food processor, blender, or heavy mortar with a pestle, combine the chili with the salt and vinegar. Blend to a thick paste.
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Serve at room temperature, or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 1 month.
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Cucumber Relish:
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In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar and salt dissolve. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
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A few minutes before serving, add the cucumber, onion, and chile to the cooled vinegar mixture and toss well. Divide among 4 small dishes. Sprinkle each serving with peanuts, garnish with cilantro leaves, and serve immediately.
