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1
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot or large deep skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking.
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2
Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with salt. Brown chicken in 4 batches, turning, about 5 minutes per batch, transferring as browned to a large dish.
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3
Add enough of remaining oil to pot to total 1/4 cup fat, then stir in flour with a flat metal or wooden spatula and cook over moderately low heat, scraping back and forth constantly (not stirring), until roux is the color of milk chocolate, 10 to 20 minutes.
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4
Add onion and celery and cook, scraping back and forth occasionally, until onion is softened, about 8 minutes (approximate - use your own judgement) Be careful not to b.
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5
Add water to roux mixture and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally until roux is incorporated. (Roux will appear curdled initially, but will come together as it reaches a boil.) Add chicken and any juices that accumulated, then simmer, partially covered, until chicken is cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes. Stir in some red pepper flakes (if you want a little kick) and salt to taste and serve over rice.
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6
Cooks' note:
Stew improves in flavor if made 1 day ahead.