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1
Submerge the wood chips (if using) in a bowl of water and set aside to soak.
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2
Combine the sugar, paprika, salt, pepper and cumin in a small bowl, then rub all over the brisket, coating it entirely.
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3
Set aside at room temperature.
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4
(You may apply the rub the night before cooking and allow it to season, wrapped, in the refrigerator.)
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5
Build a fire on one side of a charcoal grill, or set one of the burners on a gas grill to high.
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6
When all coals are covered with gray ash or the gas grill is hot, place the brisket, fat side up, on the cooler side of grill, add a handful of the soaked wood chips to the hot side and put the cover down.
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7
Cook for 15 or 20 minutes.
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8
Flip the brisket over, add the second handful of wood chips to the hot side and cook an additional 20 minutes or so.
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9
Remove brisket and wrap tightly in foil, fat side up.
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10
Preheat oven to 225.
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11
Put the brisket packet in a large roasting pan, and place in the oven to cook, unattended, for the next 9 to 10 hours, until extremely tender.
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12
(The internal temperature of the meat will be around 165 degrees.)
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13
Unwrap the meat carefully, still in the roasting pan, and save the accumulated juices.
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14
Slice against the grain and pour the juice on top of the result.
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15
Consider serving with baked beans.
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16
Use your own recipe or one from nytimes.com.
