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1
Twenty-four hours in advance, make the yoghurt whey - hang 2 litres of natural yoghurt through muslin for 24 hours. Prepare the horseradish cream: finely grate the fresh horseradish, mix into double or whipping cream and leave to infuse overnight.
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2
The next day, slice off the bottom of the cauliflower just above the root. Melt the butter gently in a cast iron pan with a lid. Place the cauliflower, flat-side down, in the butter. Slap the spruce and juniper branches against each other to release aromas. Arrange the branches around and on top of the cauliflower, put the lid on and leave to cook on a medium to low heat for 25 to 35 minutes (a smallish cauliflower 25 minutes, a large 30-35 minutes). The bottom should end up fully caramelised, while the rest is steamed and infused with the herbs. At the end of cooking, discard the branches, remove the cauliflower from the pot and leave to cool on a plate for 10 minutes. Keep the warm cooking juices left in the bottom of the pot.
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3
Take the yoghurt whey, the thin translucent liquid gathered by hanging yoghurt in muslin. Warm gently in a pan (do not boil), and mix with 2 or 3 tablespoons of the buttery cooking juices from the cauliflower pot. Add a teaspoon of fruit vinegar (such as apple cider vinegar) and a sprinkle of salt. Serve around the cauliflower as a warm broth.
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4
To finish the horseradish cream, strain then whip. Serve on the side with the cauliflower. If pressed for time, juice one whole peeled root of horseradish to flavour the cream. This won't yield a lot of juice and only holds flavour for 4-5 hours, but is very, very strong until then.
