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1. Fill a Dutch oven with 1 inch water. Set over medium-high heat, bring to a simmer and lay in steamer.
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2. In a bowl, season fish with Shaoxing wine, ginger and 2 tablespoons fish sauce. Place fish in steamer and pour marinade over fish. Steam until fish is just tender and flakes easily, about 5 minutes. Remove fish from steamer and set aside.
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3. Meanwhile, make broth: Swirl 2 tablespoons oil into a deep pot set over high heat. Add sugar and stir until caramelized, about 2 minutes. Add chili bean paste, stock, white peppercorns and cabbage. Cover and boil until cabbage is wilted, 5-7 minutes. Continue to cook, uncovered, at a rapid boil until liquid is reduced by one-third, about 10 minutes. At the end, add chilies, brine, vinegar, remaining fish sauce and soy sauce. Simmer 1 minute more and turn off heat. Cover with lid to keep hot while preparing oil.
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4. In a small pot, heat remaining oil over medium-high heat. Once hot, after 1 minute, add Sichuan peppercorns and dried chilies. Continue to heat oil until aromatic and popping but not burned, 1-2 minutes.
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5. Nestle fish into pot containing cabbage and broth. Pour hot oil and spices over top. Note: This will cause sputtering, so take care. Quickly distribute broth, fish and cabbage among four plates. Garnish with cilantro and serve immediately.
