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1
Put 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) of the butter in a large skillet or flameproof casserole with a lid and turn the heat to medium.
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2
When the butter melts, add the onions, a large pinch of salt, and some pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are quite soft, about 10 minutes.
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3
Add the meat, bay leaves, and spices and cook, stirring, until everything is well combined.
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4
Add the tomatoes, stock, and (unless your stock is salty) some more salt and pepper.
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5
Cover, adjusting the heat so the mixture simmers.
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6
Cook for about 30 minutes, until the meat is nearly tender.
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7
Stir in the bulgur, cover again, and cook until the grain is nearly tender, about 15 minutes.
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8
At this point most of the liquid should be absorbed.
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9
If the mixture is dry and the grain not fully cooked, add some boiling water and cook for a few minutes more; if it is wet, uncover and raise the heat a bit to boil out the excess.
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10
Stir in the remaining butter.
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11
Turn off the heat and let sit for 15 minutes more.
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12
Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish, and serve with the lemon if you like.
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13
In step 2, substitute ground lamb (or beef).
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14
Add the bulgur along with the tomatoes and stock and finish as in step 3.
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15
(You may skip the final resting period.)
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16
In step 2, omit the meat and add 1 1/2 to 2 cups cooked chickpeas.
