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1
Put the oil in a deep skillet or casserole with a lid and place it over medium-high heat.
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2
When the oil shimmers, add the meat.
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3
Brown it well on all sides, turning as necessary, about 10 minutes, perhaps longer.
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4
While the meat is browning, sprinkle it with salt and pepper.
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5
Turn the heat to low and pour off all but a couple tablespoons of the fat.
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6
Add the garlic and chiles and cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds.
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7
Add the coconut milk and nam pla and raise the heat; bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low once again.
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8
Partially cover the pan and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily.
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9
Cook for at least an hour, stirring every 15 minutes or so; do not let the bottom burn.
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10
If the mixture becomes too thick, add water, 1/2 cup or so at a time.
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11
Cook until the meat is quite tender.
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12
If the sauce is a good consistency at this point, simply plate and serve.
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13
If it is too thick, add a little water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is creamy.
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14
Garnish with the cilantro and serve or cover and refrigerate for up to a day before reheating, adding a little more water to thin the stew if necessary.