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1
Make the lime crema: In a small bowl, whisk together sour cream and lime zest.
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2
Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
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3
Make the pickled onions: In a separate bowl, combine red onion, lime juice, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon sugar.
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4
Let the onion pickle at room temperature for at least 1 hour.
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5
Meanwhile, toast the chiles for the sauce: Heat a very large skillet (or use a Dutch oven) over medium-high heat until hot.
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6
Lay chiles flat in skillet and toast until fragrant and pliable and color darkens, 10 to 15 seconds a side; do not let them burn and turn bitter.
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7
Transfer chiles to a large bowl, cover with hot water and let stand 30 minutes.
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8
Wipe out skillet.
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9
Make the bean-chorizo mixture: While chiles soak, heat 2 tablespoons oil in the skillet over medium-high heat.
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10
Add chorizo and cook until golden, about 5 minutes.
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11
Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
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12
Stir white onion into skillet and cook until softened, about 7 minutes.
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13
Finely chop 1/4 cup cilantro stems and add to pan, along with cumin.
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14
Cook 1 minute.
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15
Return chorizo to pan.
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16
Stir in beans, 1 cup stock and 3/4 teaspoon salt.
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17
Bring to a simmer; reduce heat to medium-low and cook gently 10 minutes.
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18
Taste and add more salt if needed.
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19
Make the chile sauce: Heat broiler.
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20
Place garlic cloves (in skins) on a baking sheet.
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21
Broil, turning once, until very tender, 5 to 10 minutes.
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22
Peel garlic when cool enough to handle.
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23
Drain chiles and place in a blender or food processor.
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24
Add peeled garlic and 2 cups stock.
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25
Puree until smooth.
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26
Heat 4 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
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27
Add chile puree and simmer vigorously, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until sauce has thickened.
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28
Add remaining 1 cup stock, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer gently, stirring often, until sauce reduces to 1 1/2 cups, about 25 minutes.
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29
Stir in remaining 2 teaspoons sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt and remove from heat.
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30
Assemble the casserole: Heat oven to 350 degrees.
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31
Spread a quarter of the chile sauce over bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.
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32
Place a layer of 6 overlapping tortillas on top of the sauce, followed by another layer of sauce, half the bean mixture and half the cheese.
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33
Cover with another layer of 6 tortillas, a layer of sauce, remaining bean mixture and remaining cheese.
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34
Spoon remaining sauce on top.
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35
Cover pan tightly and bake 20 minutes.
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36
Uncover and continue baking until casserole is bubbly around edges and cheese is melted, 20 minutes more.
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37
Let casserole rest 10 minutes, then serve topped with dollops of lime crema, some pickled onion, pumpkin seeds and cilantro leaves.