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1
Preheat the oven to 375F.
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2
Season the ribs generously with salt.
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3
Coat a large wide pan with olive oil and bring to high heat.
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4
Add the ribs to the pan and brown very well on all sidesthis is an EXTREMELY important step in the development of big brown flavors.
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5
It may take up to 20 minutesdont rush it!
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6
While the ribs are browning, put the onions, carrots, celery, mushrooms, and garlic in a food processor and puree to a coarse paste; set aside.
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7
When the ribs are very brown on all sides, remove them from the pan.
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8
Ditch the fat, add a bit of fresh olive oil, and add the pureed veggies to the pan.
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9
Season generously with salt and cook over medium-high heat until the veggies are very brown and a crud has formed on the bottom of the pan, 8 to 10 minutes.
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10
Scrape the crud and let it reform.
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11
Dont rush this step.
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12
Add the tomato paste and prepared horseradish and cook, stirring frequently, until it starts to brown, 1 to 2 minutes.
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13
Add the wine, bring it to a boil (BTB), and stir frequently to scrape the crud from the bottom of the pan (this is the big-money flavor).
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14
Continue cooking until reduced by half, 3 to 4 minutes.
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15
Return the ribs to the pan and add enough water to barely cover the meat.
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16
Toss in the bay leaves and thyme bundle, cover the pan with aluminum foil, and cook in the oven for 2 1/2 hours.
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17
Check the ribs every 45 minutes to make sure they are still covered in liquid; if the liquid has reduced too much, add more water.
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18
Turn the ribs after about 1 hour and continue cooking.
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19
Remove the foil during the last 20 minutes of cooking to let things get nice and brown and to let the sauce reduce.
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20
When the meat is done it should be very tender but not falling apart.
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21
To serve, remove the bay leaves and thyme bundle and spoon the sauce over the ribs and sprinkle with the chives and freshly grated horseradish for an extra kick.
