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1
Pick through the beans and remove any debris.
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2
If you have time to soak the beans overnight, place them in a large pot, add cold water to cover generously, and let sit for 12 hours or overnight.
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3
Otherwise, to quick-soak the beans, put them in a heavy 6-quart pot and add water to cover by about 2 inches.
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4
Bring to a boil and then turn the heat off.
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5
Let soak for 1 hour and then drain in a colander.
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6
Whichever method you used, drain the beans, return them to the pot, and cover with water by about 1 inch.
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7
Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for several minutes, skimming off any foam that rises to the top.
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8
Add the ham hocks if you are using them, along with the carrot, onion, garlic, celery, bay leaves, peppercorns, and chile.
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9
Simmer for 30 minutes to 1 hour or longer, until the beans are nearly tender, adding a little water as necessary along the way so that the beans remain submerged.
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10
When the beans are tender but still just slightly too firm to eat, add the lemon zest, white wine, and 2 tablespoons salt and continue to simmer until they are completely cooked.
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11
Adjust the seasoning and remove the carrot, onion, garlic, celery, bay leaves, chile, and as many of the peppercorns as you easily find.
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12
If you find that the beans are done before the ham hocks are completely tender, transfer the hocks to a small saucepan along with some bean cooking liquid and additional water to cover.
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13
Simmer gently until the meat is fork-tender; let the hocks cool in the broth; and then return the broth to the beans.
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14
Remove the meat from the bones and return the meat to the beans or reserve it for use in Macaroni with Beans, Roasted Pumpkin, and Ham Hocks (page 182).
