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1
Preheat the oven to 325F.
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Combine the first 5 ingredients in a 3- or 4-quart casserole (an ovenproof saucepan will do), stir a couple of times, and place in the oven.
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3
Cook for 30 minutes, then stir.
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Cook for 30 minutes more, then stir; at this point the milk will have developed a filmy cream-colored skin, and the rice will have begun to swell.
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5
Stir the filmy skin back into the liquid.
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Cook for 30 minutes more.
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7
The skin will have redeveloped, a little darker this time, and the kernels of rice will have swollen a little more.
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Cook for another 30 minutes, then stir.
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Now the pudding is almost done.
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10
Return the mixture to the oven and begin to check the pudding every 10 minutes, stirring gently each time you check.
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The pudding may be done 10, 20, or 30 minutes later.
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Invariably, it is done before you believe it is.
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When the mixture is silky, creamy, and thick, the rice suspended perfectly in a rich custard, it is overcooked; when it cools, it will become too hard (though still quite good to eat).
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You must make a leap of faith and remove the custard from the oven when the rice kernels are very swollen and the mixture is thick but still quite fluid.
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As it cools, it will thicken considerably.
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16
While its cooling, remove the cinnamon stick.
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Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold, garnished with a bit of ground cinnamon.
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The cinnamon is optional.When the rice pudding is done, stir in 1 tablespoon rose water or orange-flower water; taste and add more if you like.
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Closely related to creme brulee (page 635): When youre ready to serve the pudding, set up a broiler so that the top of the casserole will be no more than 3 inches from the heat source; 2 inches is better.
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20
Cover the top of the custard with a thin layer of sugara tablespoon or two.
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(You may also divide the custard into small bowls or ramekins before proceeding.)
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22
Turn on the broiler and put the casserole or ramekins under the heat; rotate it so that the heat hits all parts of the top evenly.
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23
Cook until the sugar melts and blackens a bit, about 5 minutes, then remove.
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24
Serve within an hour.
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25
An interesting and soothing Scandinavian tradition: Double the amount of milk; reduce the sugar to 1/4 cup.
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Do not bake, but cook, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the rice is very tender, about 1 hour.
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27
Serve warm, in bowls, with fresh, whipped, or sour cream.
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28
This is good with some minced crystallized or peeled fresh ginger in it: Substitute homemade (page 584) or canned coconut milk for all or some of the milk.
