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1
Snap the heads of celery into individual ribs (a strangely satisfying task), then wash, trim, and neaten them where necessary.
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2
Lay the ribs in a large, ovenproof baking dish or saucepan and pour in enough water barely to cover them.
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3
Peel and thinly slice the onion, then add to the dish with the bay leaves, a little salt, and some black pepper.
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4
Poach over low heat, with the water at a gentle bubble, till the celery is tender to the point of a knife.
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5
Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).
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6
Remove the celery, onion, and bay with a slotted spoon and lay them in a large, shallow ovenproof baking dish or roasting pan, leaving the hot cooking liquor behind.
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7
Warm the milk in a small pan.
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8
In a separate pan, melt the butter over medium heat and stir in the flour.
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9
Continue cooking, stirring pretty much continuously, until you have a pale, golden pasteit will smell warm and slightly nutty.
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10
Add 1 1/2 cups (350ml) of the cooking liquor from the celery followed by the warmed milk, a small ladleful at a time, until you have a smooth sauce.
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11
Stir in three-quarters of the Parmesan and turn the heat down so that the sauce simmers quietly for a good fifteen to twenty minutes.
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12
Chop the parsley not too finely, stir it into the sauce, then taste and correct the seasoning (I try to bear in mind that I will be adding more Parmesan shortly, which will be a little salty).
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13
Pour the sauce over the celery.
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14
Mix the remaining grated Parmesan with the breadcrumbs, then sprinkle over the top.
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15
Bake for forty minutes or so, until the sauce is bubbling enticingly.
