A Dish of Baked Celery and its Sauce

Snap the heads of celery into individual ribs (a strangely satisfying task), then wash, trim, and neaten them where necessary.

Lay the ribs in a large, ovenproof baking dish or saucepan and pour in enough water barely to cover them.

Peel and thinly slice the onion, then add to the dish with the bay leaves, a little salt, and some black pepper.

Poach over low heat, with the water at a gentle bubble, till the celery is tender to the point of a knife.

Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).

Remove the celery, onion, and bay with a slotted spoon and lay them in a large, shallow ovenproof baking dish or roasting pan, leaving the hot cooking liquor behind.

Warm the milk in a small pan.

In a separate pan, melt the butter over medium heat and stir in the flour.

Continue cooking, stirring pretty much continuously, until you have a pale, golden pasteit will smell warm and slightly nutty.

Add 1 1/2 cups (350ml) of the cooking liquor from the celery followed by the warmed milk, a small ladleful at a time, until you have a smooth sauce.

Stir in three-quarters of the Parmesan and turn the heat down so that the sauce simmers quietly for a good fifteen to twenty minutes.

Chop the parsley not too finely, stir it into the sauce, then taste and correct the seasoning (I try to bear in mind that I will be adding more Parmesan shortly, which will be a little salty).

Pour the sauce over the celery.

Mix the remaining grated Parmesan with the breadcrumbs, then sprinkle over the top.

Bake for forty minutes or so, until the sauce is bubbling enticingly.